Historic Italy, Population 14

Civita And Walkwat

Civita di Bagnoregio, Viterbo is located in northern Lazio, just south of the Tuscany border. This "hill town" came to our attention as one of our guests were seeking a scenic place to visit on their way to Tuscany. We say "hill town" because this place is way up there perched on top of a very high hill. An amazing feat of medieval engineering. Civita di Bagnoregio is actually two remote towns. Civita is on a hill accessible only by a long stone walkway that begins at the end of the road from neighboring Bagnoregio. The photos show the long walking bridge. A modern idea of marrying contemporary design to the towns antiquity was "imagined" not construction not begun.

The "Imagined" New Walkway

Civita is perched atop a volcanic hill just south of Orvieto and to the east of Lago Bolsena. It is about 1 1/2 hour north of Rome. It' a dramatic setting and tenuous too. Civita clings to the edge of a crumbling cliff of tufa rock that has slowly etched by wind, sun, rain and seismic activity that is not new to this town or region. Indeed, Civita is yet another example of endangered Italian cultural heritage threatened by earthquakes as we have seen in the north. Just a little shaking here, which has not happened in some time, and old stone facades are weakened and the cliffs of Civita di Bagnoregio squeeze in ever more.

A Dreamy Place At The Right Time

Civita di Bagnoregio was founded by Etruscans about 2.500 years ago in a time when geologically it was not so difficult a location. During the Etruscan period, in fact, it was an important city for its position along an ancient road connected to a dense network of trade routes and traces of Etrusca are found in the town's necropolis beneath the belvedere of San Francesco Vecchio and cave of Saint Bonaventure which was transformed into a chapel during the Middle Ages. Saint Bonaventure is one of the most important figures of Civita, who was miraculously cured from a serious illness by St. Francis of Assisi, it is said.

Circa Mid 1800's

During the Dark Ages the town passed through hands from the Lombards to the Franks and finally passed under the Papal State, as everything did in this region with the fall of Rome. From 740 to 1695 Civita di Bagnoregio grew with imitations and peacefully prospered through domination by Orvieto.  But in 1695 Civita's descent began through a serious earthquake that compelled many residents to leave the city. The continuous seismic activity through the centuries since brought a long series of landslides and departures. Compared to its halcyon days, Civita di Bagnoregio retains a very small number of people - it is said there are only 14 year round - who are determined to keep this corner of history little alive.

A Day For Donkeys

La Tonna, The Slow Palio

Twice a year, during the first Monday of June and the second Monday of September on the main square of Civita a donkey race with jockeys takes place. This race begins in the afternoon, after a brief procession in the town. In ancient times, the donkey was considered an intelligent animal compared to its role today as a "jackass". At La Tonna the donkey regains its protagonist role.

Living Nativity

During the Christmas holidays through the 6th January more than 50 characters in costume perform the birth of Jesus Christ. The performance begins at 17:00 hour and ends at 19:00 on the 26th December, 1st January and 6th January.

A Local Meal

You may wish to have a little something to eat at Antico Forno. 

Hunting The Illusive White Truffle

Who's Ready To Truffle Hunt?

That seasonal walk in the woods to hunt for the "diamond in the kitchen" returns in October and November 2012. Hunting truffles, harvesting olives and picking porcini are some of the most enjoyable Italian rituals of the Fall. Brisk, clean air, Fall colors and a bounty of produce are some great memories.
ItalianVillaRentals.com offers its Umbrian Truffle Hunt. A three day - all inclusive* - food and culture focused immersion is perfect for not only foodies, but for those that simply want to enjoy while staying on an historic country estate 90 minutes from Rome. Perfect for retired individuals or groups; perfect for couples or individuals planning for a long weekend get away.

Three Full Days Of Food, Culture and Wine

First Day

You can tell he's a truffle hunter by his camouflage outfit.
Truffles don't have a chance. They never see him coming!

We join a professional truffle hunter (cavatore) on his morning hunt with his faithful dogs in the beautiful forests of Umbria. This will be followed by a Umbrian lunch at a farm, tasting the precious "diamonds" just harvested with a meal served with an Umbrian wine. In the afternoon, a visit to the Urbani Truffle Academy, perhaps Italy's most important processor and promoter of truffles. There will a guided tour and a presentation about their products ending with a tasting. In the evening, an unforgettable truffle based menu at Torre Orlando.

Day Two

Ahhh.the elusive white truffle.
A diamond in the rough.

A visit the Citta' di Castello region, where the famous white truffles are found. We'll visit a local manufacturer and its museum, Bianconi, and learn more about this amazing ingredient, described as "the most expensive food in the world". At the Bianconi Truffle Museum roll up your sleeves for a cooking class of truffle-based recipes, followed by lunch. In the afternoon, guests will learn about Umbrian wine production in the towns of Bevagna and Montefalco, visiting typical wineries and enjoying a wine tasting of 4 of the best red grapes of the region: Merlot, Rosso di Montefalco, the coveted Sagrantino and Sagrantino Passito. During the grape harvesting season (September-October), it will be possible to observe the various phases of the wine production. In the evening, dinner at the winery with local recipes, wild boar cold cuts, homemade pasta and venison stew accompanied with serious red wines.

Third Day

Oilve picking in November.

We will explore the Spoleto area, visiting this spectacular Medieval town, and have lunch at Apollinaire, a restaurant specializing in truffle recipes. This is a really cool place with its 12th century walls, wooden beams and atmosphere. The afternoon will be dedicated to another highlight of Umbrian gastronomic tradition, olive oil. Umbria is said to have some of the best olive oil in Italy...but then every region says that. With a visit the St. Emilian olive-tree (1,700 years-old) near Trevi, followed by an olive oil tasting at Decimi, probably the best producer of the region. During the olive harvesting period, in October and November, it will be also possible to visit an orchard and a mill and observe the various phases of olive oil production. On the last evening, dinner at La Torre Orlando with Medieval recipes.

Price start from Euro 980 per person, all inclusive with meals, wine, rental, and transfers including with pickup and drop off at Rome's Fiumicino. *Air not included. Drop us a line for a final price and which house you wish to stay.